In an era where consolidation defines much of the global eyewear industry, Jacques Durand represents a different trajectory: a family-led Italian group quietly building a vertically integrated, design-driven ecosystem rooted in artisanal legitimacy. Founded in 2012 in Montecchio Maggiore, Vicenza, JDO has evolved from a single-brand manufacturer into a structured creative group encompassing Jacques Durand and Conception Générale while simultaneously operating the high-end retail chain Punto Ottico Humaneyes across Europe and the United States
In this in-depth conversation with Emma Concato, JDO explores the evolution of its leadership, the strategic role of direct-to-consumer retail through Punto Ottico, the positioning of Jacques Durand within the global premium segment, as well as key topics such as material sourcing, manufacturing ethics, competitive dynamics, and the future of independent luxury eyewear.
Who currently owns and manages JDO today? How has the brand’s leadership evolved in recent years?
Since 2012 and its creation in Montecchio Maggiore, Vicenza, Italy, JDO Eyewear has become a reference in the eyewear industry for the creation of fine-quality, handcrafted, timeless frames produced with a strict commitment to a sustainable, ethical, fully transparent supply chain. The location of the headquarters in Vicenza has afforded JDO a completely unique position with regard to jewellery expertise applied to eyewear and collaboration with some of the most highly skilled Italian artisans trained as goldsmiths.
Today JDO is directed by two generations of the Concato family, Domenico (CEO), and Stefania, and their daughters, Emma, Clara and Alice. The family also owns the prestigious independent retail chain,Punto Ottico Humaneyes, a reference in international optical retailing at the very highest level, today operating with six stores in Italy, two in the US and two locations most recently opened in Serbia.
The strategic and creative leadership has progressively evolved toward a structured group identity, with stronger artistic direction and clearer brand architecture. A key milestone in this evolution has been the appointment of Emma Concato as Creative Director & Designer of Jacques Durand, the in 2022, reinforcing the company’s design-driven approach while preserving artisanal heritage.
How important is direct-to-consumer distribution through your own Punto Ottico stores? What role do these stores play in the brand’s overall strategy?
Direct-to-consumer distribution through our own Punto Ottico stores is extremely important to us, as these spaces represent true brand touchpoints. They allow us to remain independent while fostering direct, meaningful contact with our customers values that are at the very core of our philosophy. Being present in person allows us to build authentic, long-term relationships and to truly stand behind what we create.
Our stores provide real added value. Customers have the opportunity to genuinely discover our collections and understand how they are made: through artisanal, transparent processes, without the use of paints or harmful substances, and with frames designed to be regenerated over time. This regenerative approach is part of a unique service model that ensures continuity and responsibility. It means we are not just delivering a product, but offering lasting care.
As Domenico Concato often says, “online is not everything.” We want to safeguard the in-store experience, which begins in the refraction room and continues side by side with our customers through consultation and final delivery. The physical space allows for dialogue, comparison, and discovery.
Our strategy is also about moving from storytelling to storydoing. It means embodying craftsmanship by sitting next to the customer and developing a product that truly suits them. We are therefore strengthening our tailor-made approach, making it as accessible as possible. As Domenico Concato adds, fully low-cost tailor-made is impossible true craftsmanship has value but what matters is preserving the identity of the store and the integrity of the process.
For this reason, we have expanded our optometric rooms, created dedicated stations for personalized consultation, and introduced a renewed Tailor Made project for bespoke eyewear creation, alongside a curated selection of handcrafted frames. Our stores are designed to highlight every department and every team member involved in the process from welcome and eye care services, to consultation and final delivery.
The in-store, direct experience allows us to support the customer 360 degrees. It is a space where expertise, craftsmanship, and human connection come together—transforming the purchase of eyewear into a complete, meaningful journey.
How would you describe Jacques Durand’s positioning in the global eyewear market today? What makes the brand distinct in the premium segment?
Jacques Durand holds a distinctive position in the global premium eyewear market as a benchmark for authenticity and true excellence. Each frame is labeled “100% Made in Italy”, meaning it is entirely designed, engineered, and manufactured in our premises in Montecchio Maggiore, Vicenza, Italy, since 2012 by JDO Eyewear.
This is a crucial distinction in a market where many brands claim “Made in Italy” even when only the final production stages occur in Italy. For us, full traceability, transparency, and ethical production are non-negotiable.
What makes Jacques Durand truly distinct is its timeless coherence. “Classic” is the driving force of the design research: pure drawing, uninterrupted lines, no decorative excess—just essential form.
How many stores currently carry Jacques Durand worldwide, and which markets are the strongest?
Among our markets, Japan is especially important to us. There, we have found outstanding friends and business partners with whom we share strong values and a common brand vision. We are particularly proud to collaborate in Japan with Eyewear Mebius such a close-knit team that has perfectly understood the identity of Jacques Durand and is committed to carrying this image and essence forward in a coherent way within the Japanese market.
This synergy has led to custom projects, capsule collections, and site-specific publications. We are honored and proud that the Jacques Durand collection is so highly appreciated in Japan. We recently had the opportunity to visit again this beautiful country, and each time we feel warmly welcomed. The market itself is important, but relationships are even more important. We value building relationships based on trust in order to carry the legacy forward.
How do you source key materials such as acetate or horn, and how do you ensure transparency in the supply chain?
For acetate, we rely on historic Italian excellence such as Mazzucchelli 1849, a longstanding reference in high-quality cellulose acetate production. Alongside Italian acetate, we also work with leading Japanese suppliers recognized internationally for their premium materials and refined color research.
This careful selection allows us to combine tradition, innovation, and the highest material standards. For natural horn, we source certified materials of safe origin. The horn used for our frames is a by-product of the food industry that would otherwise be discarded. In addition, the horn comes from animals whose horns are removed to protect them from poaching, ensuring that our use of this material aligns with responsible and ethical practices.Only the finest quality is selected and then handcrafted entirely in Italy using traditional techniques.
To ensure transparency, each horn frame is associated with a unique identification code. The frames are registered in a cataloging system: the code allows to uniquely identify and trace each horn frame made at Atelier Jacques Durand. There will never be a horn frame registered with the same code as another frame. Transparency is fundamental to us.
Each Jacques Durand frame is accompanied by a Manufacturing card that details every stage of production and lists the artisans involved in crafting the frame. This ensures full traceability and reflects our ethical, transparent approach to the supply chain where every hand, every step, and every material is acknowledged.
Who do you see as your closest competitors in the premium or independent luxury eyewear segment?
In the premium and independent luxury eyewear segment, we see a few productive and highly skilled players, particularly in Italy, with potential in terms of craftsmanship and design. Some of these brands share our commitment to quality and artisanal excellence.
However, there are also many companies both in Italy and internationally that do not innovate and instead operate according to a low-cost, low-quality logic. What often differentiates brands is the ability to build a cohesive brand universe and compelling storytelling.
Not all players succeed in communicating the full identity and narrative of their brand. Our closest competitors are those who can truly produce high-quality objects and communicate that excellence effectively: brands with a story to tell companies that believe in crafting excellence, creating real value, and connecting with clients through authenticity and purpose. That said, we believe that the real issue here is anyone who plays unfairly.
Unfair competition comes from those who look for shortcuts purely to increase margins for example, failing to declare the true origin of production or labeling a product “Made in Italy” when it is not. This undermines those companies that genuinely manufacture in Italy, invest in local craftsmanship, and operate with transparency. These bad actors ultimately mislead the final customer. Companies that operate honestly investing in ethical and transparent production, and choosing true craftsmanship over shortcuts are competitors it is a pleasure to measure ourselves against.
What consumer or industry trends are shaping your product development and strategy right now?
Right now, our product development and strategy are strongly shaped by the demand for Tailor Made and personalization creating a deeper relationship between the brand universe and the customer through the product itself.
It’s about offering bespoke solutions that reflect individual needs and tastes while making each customer feel truly understood and valued. The real difference is made by the customer experience.
It’s no longer just about providing beautiful eyewear, but about what the consumer actually experiences. My grandfather used to say, “A sale is truly complete when the customer comes back a second time; that’s when you’ve really earned their loyalty“. At the same time, we remain committed to consistency with who we are. This means being coherent in our communication, in the way we design and make eyewear, and in the values we uphold.
We do not chase shortcuts or trends; instead, we continue to invest in craftsmanship, transparency, and authentic design, ensuring that every creation reflects the timeless identity of our brand.
How do you select distribution partners and maintain brand consistency across retail environments?
When selecting distribution partners, we focus on building long-lasting relationships based on genuine alignment in thinking and shared values. It is essential for us that partners truly understand and embrace our approach to craftsmanship, quality, and transparency. To maintain brand consistency across retail environments, we provide support materials for sales, activate collaborative initiatives with stores, and remain fully available to engage in ongoing dialogue. Listening to feedback and continuously improving together ensures that every point of contact reflects the identity and standards of our brand, creating a cohesive and authentic experience for our clients.
How do you view the independent luxury eyewear market today — stagnation, scaling, or renewed growth?
We view the independent luxury eyewear market with great optimism and hope it continues to grow. Today, tools for gathering information are widely accessible, allowing customers to make informed choices and carefully evaluate the quality, craftsmanship, and ethics of the products they purchase. We also see a growing appreciation and demand for transparent and responsible brands, which can support sustained growth for those, like us, who invest in artisanal excellence and ethical production.
How would you define the typology of the Jacques Durand client?
In an increasingly fast-paced world where we are continuously overstimulated by new demands, distractions and desires, where everything is relentlessly chasing innovation, obsolesce is ordinary. The life cycle of goods is short and limited due to to the availability of more advanced replacements or due to wear and tear, which is sometimes caused by design standards that make repair difficult or impossible. It’s easier to shout than think, to throw away rather than repair, to appear rather than be. In this context, it becomes necessary to propose a model in which the conception of objects holds an important value, which can be summarized in the aspiration to free oneself from the constraints of time and the flow of external events: the aim to design objects that reach a state of eternity, of perfection immutable forms that are superior to any change or decay.
The Jacques Durand client is someone who values timeless elegance, craftsmanship, and authenticity. Our ideal customer appreciates the story behind a product, recognizing the care, artisanal expertise, and ethical production that go into each frame. In terms of lifestyle, they are discerning, cultured, and curious someone who seeks quality over quantity.
Their expectations are high: they want eyewear that is not only beautiful and functional but also crafted responsibly, designed with coherence, and able to endure over time. For them, wearing Jacques Durand is not just about fashion—it is an experience, a connection to craftsmanship, and a statement of refined individuality.
