For decades, the global eyewear industry has been defined by a handful of corporate giants. Conglomerates like EssilorLuxottica and Marcolin have dominated production for luxury houses, providing scale, distribution, and global consistency. But as consumer behavior shifts and the quiet luxury movement gains momentum, fashion’s most influential names are beginning to look elsewhere—to independent eyewear makers who prioritize craftsmanship, authenticity, and design innovation.
The Rumblings of Change
Industry insiders suggest that Marcolin, one of the largest players in the eyewear sector, is preparing for a sale either later this year or early next year. In the meantime, the company is reportedly cutting back significantly on spending to ensure attractive financial results on paper. For many in the industry, this signals not only consolidation but also an inflection point: a recognition that the old corporate model of eyewear production may no longer align with what luxury brands and their customers are seeking.
Fashion Houses Turning Toward Independents
The shift is already underway. The Row has partnered with Japanese cult-favorite Eyevan, a move that underscores the brand’s minimalist sensibility and appreciation for artisanal detail. Giorgio Armani recently released an exclusive collection with Yuichi Toyama, another Japanese eyewear designer celebrated for his sculptural, avant-garde approach. These collaborations reflect a new mindset: the prestige of a luxury brand is no longer amplified solely by corporate scale, but by the artistry and integrity of its partners.
Akoni: A Hybrid Model
An important case study is Akoni Group (AKN), majority-owned by Alsara Investment Group, the investment vehicle of Rachid Mohamed Rachid—who also controls Balmain and Valentino. Although backed by serious corporate capital, Akoni operates like an independent creative hub in Switzerland, fostering close collaborations with designers and brands. The group has already made strategic moves into the independent eyewear space, most notably acquiring Götti, a minimalist Swiss brand rooted in quiet luxury.
This approach mirrors larger industry trends. Kering’s acquisition of Lindberg, a Danish eyewear label known for its discreet elegance, signaled that quiet luxury has become a serious market force. The acceleration of consumer demand for authenticity, storytelling, and elevated simplicity has pushed luxury groups to rethink how eyewear is positioned within their brand ecosystems.
Quiet Luxury as the Next Decade’s Defining Movement
After nearly a decade of dominance by the New Guards Group and Virgil Abloh in the streetwear era, the focus of fashion is clearly shifting. Looking at where former New Guards founders are investing today, it becomes evident that quiet luxury will define the next 10 years. Brands are redirecting their attention away from the teenage-driven hype culture and toward the affluent 35+ consumer—a demographic that seeks lasting quality and understated elegance rather than logos alone. A strong confirmation of this trend is the buzz surrounding The Other Glasses, whose launch was met with remarkable enthusiasm and whose collections were swiftly adopted by leading global retailers, sitting comfortably alongside some of the industry’s most established names.
The SSENSE Lesson: The Consumer Has Changed
Looking at the case of SSENSE, a retailer once celebrated for its sharp focus on the 15 – 27 demographic and its pandemic-era bets on youth culture, the cracks are clear. The company has recently filed for creditor protection, a move that underscores how dramatically consumer behavior has shifted. The playbook that once relied on influencer marketing and celebrity-driven hype no longer holds the same weight. Today’s consumer is harder to impress with logos or name recognition alone. Instead, value is being redefined by design integrity, narrative, craftsmanship, and scarcity. Luxury treated as fast fashion ultimately devalued the sector, and the market correction is pushing brands back toward the fundamentals of true luxury.
What Comes Next
As the eyewear sector recalibrates, two paths are emerging for top-tier fashion houses:
- Building in-house creative eyewear hubs, modeled after Balmain and Valentino’s work with Akoni.
- Collaborating directly with independent luxury eyewear makers, who bring craftsmanship and a distinct creative vision.
Either way, the trend is clear: the eyewear consumer no longer values just the logo stamped on the temple of a frame. They want a story, an experience, and a product that embodies quality at every level.
If the momentum continues, the eyewear industry may well evolve into a fragmented ecosystem where independent producers hold the creative edge, and major fashion houses partner with them to meet the demands of an ever more discerning luxury customer.
