Silmo Paris has long stood as one of the most important international eyewear trade fairs, drawing thousands of buyers, distributors, and journalists each year. Yet in recent seasons, a growing cohort of ultra high-end brands has chosen to remain outside of this ecosystem. Names like Sato, Jacques Marie Mage, Thom Browne, as well as newcomers to the luxury eyewear market such as Paloceras and The Other Glasses, have stepped away from grand exhibition booths, opting instead for private meetings in discreet locations with carefully selected clients.
The rationale is clear: in the luxury industry, exclusivity often outweighs visibility. While trade fairs provide enormous exposure, they also flatten the playing field, placing niche luxury houses alongside mainstream and even mass-market labels. For brands operating at the very top of the market, such proximity can dilute their aura of rarity.
Exclusivity Over Exposure
Private appointments—whether hosted in hotel suites, hidden showrooms, or curated spaces—allow brands to exercise full control over the experience. From the visual atmosphere to the music, the dialogue, and even the hospitality—coffee, champagne, or an unhurried conversation—the encounter feels less transactional and more intimate. It reinforces the idea that these products are not for everyone, but only for those connected enough to be invited into the inner circle.
In today’s luxury narrative, it matters less how many people see a product and more who has access to it. The buyers that matter most are already well-defined. Many of these retailers—numbering roughly 1,200 globally for the ultra high-end eyewear niche—possess the clientele and capacity to sell limited-production collections. They do not wander through flashy trade fair booths in search of the next discovery.
“We chose not to attend large trade fairs such as Silmo because the essence of Sato cannot be captured in the noise and rush of a crowded hall. A Sato frame is best discovered in a calm and intimate atmosphere — where attention to detail, a glass of champagne, a touch of jazz, and even a Japanese pastry create the right conditions for true appreciation.” explains Jérémie Gamon, co-founder of Sato.
The Changing Role of Trade Fairs
“We prefer to move quietly where attention is undivided. Our way of working is built on meaningful encounters with the right people at the right time.” said Mika Matikainen, co-founder of Paloceras.
Trade fairs were born in an era when consumer access and product narratives were limited. Today, storytelling happens on digital platforms—through cinematic campaigns, animations, immersive websites, and social media storytelling. In fact, creating a single piece of high-quality branded content—whether a professional film, a digital animation, or an editorial-grade photo shoot—can cost more than building a booth at Silmo. Yet the return is far greater: digital storytelling reaches not only buyers but also the end consumer, amplifying desire and brand equity at scale.
For new entrants in the luxury eyewear market, the question becomes sharper: is it worth investing in an expensive booth to present a carefully curated brand narrative to an audience that may not be qualified—or is it wiser to channel those resources into digital storytelling, print campaigns, and private experiences that reach a broader yet more relevant audience?
“The Other Glasses has taught us a lesson about resilience and steadiness. While others chase fame, we choose to let time prove our value. We seek long-term, trustworthy partners, building brick by brick a lasting legacy that truly reflects our design, quality, and values. With frames produced in deliberately limited quantities, we carefully select the partners we collaborate with to ensure that our clients experience the genuine essence of what we have to offer.” said Andra Simina, co-founder & CEO of The Other Glasses.
From Fashion Houses to Content Studios
The shift reveals a broader transformation in the luxury industry. Over the past decade, the most successful fashion houses have evolved beyond design ateliers into full-fledged content studios. Storytelling has become as critical as the product itself. In eyewear—where scarcity, craftsmanship, and identity are central—content-driven narratives shape desire and set the stage for exclusivity far more effectively than a presence in a crowded trade hall.
“For us, every appointment is not about selling, but about sharing — transmitting the DNA of the brand, its story, and its essence. This slower, more personal approach allows us to build deeper connections with our clients and partners, turning each encounter into a cultural exchange rather than a transactional one.” As Jérémie Gamon, co-founder of Sato, confirms, what matters more than sales is building relationships and a long-term vision.
The Future of Luxury Eyewear Showcases
As corporate giants with billion-euro revenues build extravagant fair stands, and affordable brands vie for attention under the same roof, the ultra high-end segment is redefining its playbook. More top-tier retailers now avoid trade fairs altogether, relying instead on trusted agents, established relationships, or direct brand contact. When they do attend, it is often out of curiosity rather than necessity.
The underlying complaint voiced by many opticians is striking: it is increasingly rare to discover something truly new at trade fairs. In a world where luxury is built on discovery, mystery, and narrative, this reality points to why some of the most desirable brands are moving away from fairs like Silmo and toward private, story-driven encounters.
At the same time, another important factor is the role of sales agents in an era where everything revolves around experience. Increasingly, agents themselves organize curated events to showcase top brands—such as Linda Deplacie, founder of 4is-Eyewear in Belgium, Eredità Eyewear in Canada, or Francesca Chapman with THE LONDONi. Representing some of the most desirable names in the industry, these agents raise a critical question for luxury houses: does establishing meaningful relationships with select boutiques in a given territory still require an extravagant booth at Silmo, or can a brand’s narrative be communicated more authentically through localized, agent-driven experiences?
Luxury eyewear is no longer just about selling frames—it is about selling an experience. And in this new era, the story told outside the fairgrounds may be the one that matters most.
