{"id":4028,"date":"2026-03-13T16:05:13","date_gmt":"2026-03-13T16:05:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/?p=4028"},"modified":"2026-03-13T19:59:49","modified_gmt":"2026-03-13T19:59:49","slug":"la-crisis-de-la-autenticidad-por-que-las-marcas-independientes-siguen-sin-descifrar-el-codigo-del-consumidor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/the-authenticity-crisis-why-independent-brands-still-cant-crack-the-consumer-code\/","title":{"rendered":"La crisis de la autenticidad: Por qu\u00e9 las marcas independientes siguen sin descifrar el c\u00f3digo del consumidor"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>ACTUALIZACI\u00d3N<\/strong>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tras publicar el art\u00edculo que sigue, nos recordaron que incluso las grandes marcas suelen tener dificultades para gestionar una opini\u00f3n percibida sobre el mercado. Tras la publicaci\u00f3n de nuestro post, varios empleados aparecieron en los comentarios defendiendo la campa\u00f1a, y posteriormente recibimos un mensaje privado de&nbsp;<strong>Maisie Taylor, Comunicaci\u00f3n de marca en Cutler and Gross<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Para mayor claridad, las im\u00e1genes a las que se hace referencia en el art\u00edculo eran&nbsp;<strong>incrustado directamente desde Instagram<\/strong>, donde se publicaron originalmente, y no se cargaron ni alojaron en nuestro sitio web.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-819x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4049\" srcset=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-819x1024.jpg 819w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-10x12.jpg 10w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-400x500.jpg 400w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-800x1000.jpg 800w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-832x1040.jpg 832w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Cuando las marcas est\u00e1n acostumbradas a tratar principalmente con entornos editoriales de pago, a veces parecen no estar preparadas para los comentarios independientes y los an\u00e1lisis de mercado. En tales situaciones, los intentos de eliminar o restringir contenidos pueden interpretarse como censura, lo que rara vez es la forma correcta de abordar las cr\u00edticas o los puntos de vista divergentes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Es importante se\u00f1alar que en ning\u00fan momento negamos que la persona implicada en la campa\u00f1a pudiera ser cliente de Cutler and Gross. Nuestro punto era simplemente poner de relieve&nbsp;<strong>c\u00f3mo podr\u00eda parecer la campa\u00f1a desde el exterior<\/strong>. Si nos fijamos en los mensajes personales de cada individuo, no en el material de campa\u00f1a, las monturas que m\u00e1s se llevan parecen ser de <strong>Cubitts<\/strong>, lo que naturalmente plantea cuestiones sobre la percepci\u00f3n y la autenticidad en el contexto de una asociaci\u00f3n de marcas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/comments-819x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4050\" srcset=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/comments-819x1024.jpg 819w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/comments-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/comments-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/comments-10x12.jpg 10w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/comments-400x500.jpg 400w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/comments-800x1000.jpg 800w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/comments-832x1040.jpg 832w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/comments.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Por tanto, nuestra observaci\u00f3n se refer\u00eda a&nbsp;<strong>percepci\u00f3n del consumidor<\/strong>, no se trata de discutir los h\u00e1bitos de compra personales. Sin embargo, parece que los comentarios abiertos y sinceros a veces resultan dif\u00edciles de aceptar para las marcas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Por supuesto, hemos atendido la petici\u00f3n que se nos hizo. No obstante, el episodio ilustra un problema m\u00e1s amplio del sector: durante a\u00f1os, muchas marcas han operado en un entorno en el que la mayor parte de la cobertura de la prensa era positiva y comercial. Cuando se enfrentan a una cr\u00edtica independiente o a una perspectiva cr\u00edtica, con demasiada frecuencia el instinto se convierte en intentar eliminar el debate en lugar de participar en \u00e9l de forma constructiva. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Adem\u00e1s, desgraciadamente parece que muchas marcas a\u00fan no est\u00e1n preparadas para llegar realmente al consumidor final, ya que siguen centr\u00e1ndose en controlar el mensaje que sale de ellas en lugar de comunicar con eficacia.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>ART\u00cdCULO ORIGINAL<\/strong>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Durante m\u00e1s de una d\u00e9cada, la industria de la moda confi\u00f3 en los influencers como la v\u00eda m\u00e1s r\u00e1pida para llegar al consumidor. La f\u00f3rmula era sencilla: visibilidad igual a deseabilidad. Pero a medida que el p\u00fablico se volv\u00eda m\u00e1s sofisticado, el mecanismo empez\u00f3 a resquebrajarse. Los consumidores se dieron cuenta de que la influencia pod\u00eda comprarse y, una vez que desapareci\u00f3 esa ilusi\u00f3n, tambi\u00e9n lo hizo gran parte de su poder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Las marcas independientes de gafas experimentan ahora con una nueva estrategia: las colaboraciones con figuras culturales ajenas al ecosistema tradicional de la moda. Arquitectos, DJ, chefs y artistas aparecen cada vez m\u00e1s en las campa\u00f1as, posicionados menos como promotores y m\u00e1s como colaboradores.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La idea es integrar los productos en la cultura en lugar de limitarse a anunciarlos. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pero la autenticidad sigue siendo fr\u00e1gil. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-instagram wp-block-embed-instagram\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DV1DuUcCPKQ\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\" style=\" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);\"><div style=\"padding:16px;\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DV1DuUcCPKQ\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" style=\" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> <div style=\" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\"> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;\"><svg width=\"50px\" height=\"50px\" viewbox=\"0 0 60 60\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" xmlns:xlink=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/1999\/xlink\"><g stroke=\"none\" stroke-width=\"1\" fill=\"none\" fill-rule=\"evenodd\"><g transform=\"translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)\" fill=\"#000000\"><g><path d=\"M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631\"><\/path><\/g><\/g><\/g><\/svg><\/div><div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\"> <div style=\" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;\">Ver esta publicaci\u00f3n en Instagram<\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\"><div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: auto;\"> <div style=\" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div><\/div><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/blockquote><script async src=\"\/\/platform.instagram.com\/en_US\/embeds.js\"><\/script>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Por ejemplo, la reciente colaboraci\u00f3n entre Fergus Henderson y&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/el-gran-reajuste-de-las-gafas-jack-dooley-director-general-de-cutler-and-gross-explica-por-que-la-industria-esta-entrando-en-su-era-mas-brutalmente-honesta\/\">Cutler &amp; Gross<\/a>. A primera vista, la asociaci\u00f3n parec\u00eda un alineamiento natural entre dos instituciones de la artesan\u00eda brit\u00e1nica. Sin embargo, la ilusi\u00f3n se desvanece r\u00e1pidamente. En el propio Instagram del chef, una foto de ayer le muestra vistiendo&nbsp;<strong>Cubitts<\/strong>&nbsp;gafas. En el post de colaboraci\u00f3n de hoy, aparece en Cutler &amp; Gross.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-Article-Cutler-and-Gross-St.-John-819x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4036\" srcset=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-Article-Cutler-and-Gross-St.-John-819x1024.jpg 819w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-Article-Cutler-and-Gross-St.-John-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-Article-Cutler-and-Gross-St.-John-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-Article-Cutler-and-Gross-St.-John-10x12.jpg 10w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-Article-Cutler-and-Gross-St.-John-400x500.jpg 400w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-Article-Cutler-and-Gross-St.-John-800x1000.jpg 800w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-Article-Cutler-and-Gross-St.-John-832x1040.jpg 832w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Curated-Optics-Article-Cutler-and-Gross-St.-John.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Puede que la colaboraci\u00f3n sea natural, seg\u00fan las conversaciones mantenidas con Cutler &amp; Gross, cuyos responsables de relaciones p\u00fablicas confirmaron tanto en comentarios p\u00fablicos como en un correo electr\u00f3nico que no se trata de una colaboraci\u00f3n patrocinada. Sin embargo, si la ejecuci\u00f3n no se gestiona correctamente, el consumidor final no tiene forma de conocer estos detalles, y la colaboraci\u00f3n corre el riesgo de perder la misma autenticidad que le da su poder. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-instagram wp-block-embed-instagram\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DVvkq_HCPf5\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\" style=\" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);\"><div style=\"padding:16px;\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DVvkq_HCPf5\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" style=\" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> <div style=\" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\"> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;\"><svg width=\"50px\" height=\"50px\" viewbox=\"0 0 60 60\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" xmlns:xlink=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/1999\/xlink\"><g stroke=\"none\" stroke-width=\"1\" fill=\"none\" fill-rule=\"evenodd\"><g transform=\"translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)\" fill=\"#000000\"><g><path d=\"M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631\"><\/path><\/g><\/g><\/g><\/svg><\/div><div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\"> <div style=\" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;\">Ver esta publicaci\u00f3n en Instagram<\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\"><div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: auto;\"> <div style=\" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div><\/div><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/blockquote><script async src=\"\/\/platform.instagram.com\/en_US\/embeds.js\"><\/script>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201c<em>S\u00f3lo quer\u00eda transmitir un mensaje en respuesta al comentario dejado en la cuenta de Instagram de Cutler y Gross sobre el post de Fergus Henderson.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Gracias por compartir tus comentarios, pero quer\u00edamos que supieras que Fergus es cliente y amigo de Cutler and Gross desde hace mucho tiempo, desde principios de los 80.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Nuestra serie \u2018En conversaci\u00f3n\u2019 son art\u00edculos editoriales (no remunerados) que destacan figuras inspiradoras, algunas de las cuales forman parte de nuestra historia desde hace a\u00f1os.<\/em>\u201c<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-Comment-819x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4037\" srcset=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-Comment-819x1024.jpg 819w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-Comment-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-Comment-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-Comment-10x12.jpg 10w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-Comment-400x500.jpg 400w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-Comment-800x1000.jpg 800w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-Comment-832x1040.jpg 832w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-Comment.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>El brusco cambio deja al descubierto los mecanismos de la colaboraci\u00f3n. Lo que en un principio parece un apoyo org\u00e1nico empieza a parecer m\u00e1s bien un anuncio pagado y la narraci\u00f3n se desmorona.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"818\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-818x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4038\" srcset=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-818x1024.webp 818w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-240x300.webp 240w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-768x961.webp 768w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-1227x1536.webp 1227w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-10x12.webp 10w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-400x501.webp 400w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-800x1001.webp 800w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-832x1041.webp 832w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x-1248x1562.webp 1248w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-hero_1440x.webp 1440w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 818px) 100vw, 818px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fotograf\u00edas de Mats Liliequist para Ahlem<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Por el contrario,&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/un-futuro-hecho-a-mano-dentro-del-proximo-capitulo-de-ahlems\/\">Ahlem<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;ha experimentado recientemente con un enfoque m\u00e1s sutil. En una campa\u00f1a protagonizada por la arquitecta Maja Bernvill, las gafas nunca aparecen en la cara del sujeto. En lugar de ello, descansan despreocupadamente sobre una mesa del entorno. Las im\u00e1genes parecen m\u00e1s observacionales que promocionales, sugiriendo un estilo de vida en lugar de declarar un producto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sin embargo, las marcas de gafas se enfrentan a un reto estructural m\u00e1s profundo. Muchas siguen luchando por entender la intersecci\u00f3n entre las relaciones p\u00fablicas y la direcci\u00f3n creativa. Internet ha cambiado las expectativas: ahora es un mercado de contenidos antes que de productos. Sin embargo, muchas marcas siguen funcionando como si fuera al rev\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/AHLEM_Residence-Maya_02-819x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4039\" srcset=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/AHLEM_Residence-Maya_02-819x1024.webp 819w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/AHLEM_Residence-Maya_02-240x300.webp 240w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/AHLEM_Residence-Maya_02-768x961.webp 768w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/AHLEM_Residence-Maya_02-10x12.webp 10w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/AHLEM_Residence-Maya_02-400x500.webp 400w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/AHLEM_Residence-Maya_02-800x1001.webp 800w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/AHLEM_Residence-Maya_02-832x1041.webp 832w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/AHLEM_Residence-Maya_02.webp 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fotograf\u00edas de Mats Liliequist para Ahlem<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>El resultado suele ser una desconexi\u00f3n visible. En muchos casos, los equipos carecen de personas que hayan crecido dentro de la cultura digital que ahora moldea los gustos de los consumidores, especialmente voces j\u00f3venes que entienden instintivamente c\u00f3mo el p\u00fablico interpreta y reacciona a las narrativas visuales en l\u00ednea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Un enfoque cultural de las campa\u00f1as puede ser poderoso, pero s\u00f3lo cuando procede de personas que realmente entienden esos entornos y participan en ellos. Sin esa proximidad, las colaboraciones y campa\u00f1as corren el riesgo de parecer construidas en lugar de vividas. Y cuando la autenticidad se vuelve forzada y escenificada, la estrategia empieza a erosionar la credibilidad en lugar de construirla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignwide size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"819\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-glasses-819x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4040\" srcset=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-glasses-819x1024.webp 819w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-glasses-240x300.webp 240w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-glasses-768x961.webp 768w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-glasses-10x12.webp 10w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-glasses-400x500.webp 400w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-glasses-800x1001.webp 800w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-glasses-832x1041.webp 832w, https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Maya-glasses.webp 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 819px) 100vw, 819px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fotograf\u00edas de Mats Liliequist para Ahlem<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Incluso las marcas independientes de lujo se han apoyado en canales culturales cuidadosamente dise\u00f1ados. <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/como-jacques-marie-mage-reescribio-las-reglas-de-las-gafas-independientes\/\">Jacques Marie Mage<\/a><\/strong>, por ejemplo, consigui\u00f3 gran parte de su impulso inicial sembrando monturas a trav\u00e9s de estilistas de Hollywood, asegur\u00e1ndose apariciones en pel\u00edculas, series de televisi\u00f3n y sobre celebridades de alto perfil. Durante un tiempo, esta estrategia gener\u00f3 un inmenso atractivo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pero incluso esa forma de colocaci\u00f3n cultural acaba por saturarse. Una vez que el p\u00fablico reconoce el sistema entre bastidores, la m\u00edstica se desvanece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mientras tanto, los grandes conglomerados toman prestada la est\u00e9tica del sector independiente, pero emplean recursos totalmente distintos. As\u00ed como&nbsp;<strong>Louis Vuitton<\/strong>&nbsp;recurri\u00f3 a Pharrell Williams para remodelar su imagen,&nbsp;<strong>Ray-Ban<\/strong>&nbsp;se ha alistado <strong>A$SAP Rocky<\/strong> para reinterpretar sus gafas. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>El lenguaje visual imita cada vez m\u00e1s los lanzamientos limitados de las marcas independientes, las colaboraciones art\u00edsticas y la narraci\u00f3n cultural, pero la magnitud de la maquinaria corporativa que hay detr\u00e1s a menudo hace que el resultado parezca fabricado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La paradoja es evidente: la autenticidad se ha convertido en la moneda m\u00e1s valiosa de la industria, pero cuanto m\u00e1s agresivamente se produce, menos convincente resulta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>En la \u00faltima d\u00e9cada, con tanto \u201cmomentum\u201d y \u201chype\u201d fabricados, muchas marcas ya no entienden c\u00f3mo recrear la f\u00f3rmula. Organizadas en estructuras cada vez m\u00e1s corporativas, a menudo sin directores creativos realmente inmersos en esos entornos culturales, se han ido desconectando de la realidad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Para el consumidor actual, la diferencia entre participaci\u00f3n cultural y marketing cultural es cada vez m\u00e1s f\u00e1cil de detectar. Y en una era de exposici\u00f3n constante, puede que las marcas que triunfen no sean las que cuenten con colaboraciones m\u00e1s ruidosas, sino las que se sientan menos construidas.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"ACTUALIZACI\u00d3N: Tras publicar el art\u00edculo que aparece a continuaci\u00f3n, nos han recordado que incluso las grandes marcas suelen tener dificultades para gestionar un...","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4045,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[139],"tags":[44,33,32],"class_list":{"0":"post-4028","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-culture","8":"tag-ahlem","9":"tag-cutler-and-gross","10":"tag-luxury","11":"cs-entry"},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/Cutler-and-Gross.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4028","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4028"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4028\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4052,"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4028\/revisions\/4052"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4045"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4028"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4028"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/curatedoptics.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4028"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}